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Her View 

Cambodia - Caywood's perspective

 

Siem Reap

So far, I would confidently say Siem Reap is the touristy city we’ve been to, which was very unexpected. Cambodia - I expected a lot of random roaming animals, a lot of temples, and a street atmosphere similar to Thailand. When we arrived, we found out that a lot of locals speak at least some English, they use US Dollars more than their own currency, and there were more white people here than any other city we’ve visited thus far abroad. Siem Reap 100% relies on tourism for their city to survive. 

 

We arrived in Siem Reap with three days to see the city. Our first day we decided to take a relaxed approach and walk around the city. We saw various markets including the old market area as well as the Siem Reap night market. There were signs everywhere for cheap massages, manicures, fish pedicures, and more. Feliks and I even did a 30-minute fish pedicure for $2 each, which included a free beer or soda of your choice. Although this is something we’ve already done on the trip, it was a must here due to the huge size of the fish. They were ginormous!! I tried to research what type of fish they were but only came up empty handed. When Feliks asked the guy what kind they were, he said something similar to tilapia…but they can’t be the tilapia that we eat all the time…right?! We bought a few things at the old market and continued our walk through the city. We stopped to see one temple this day, Wat Bo, which was in a real local part of town

 

For lunch on our first day we went to this restaurant I found online that employs less-fortunate and troubled young adults. Haven, has a great story and the food to match. The owners were working along with the trainees, and it was truly a great atmosphere here. With the menu they give you a full pamphlet that tells the story of Haven and how it began. What a great story, very inspiring. We obviously are on a tight budget, but this was the perfect place to spend more on lunch than we usually do. Feliks also read that once the trainees (AKA the troubled young adults) are ready to leave and start their life after Haven, they get the full amount of all the tips they collected while working there. Please look up this organization if you ever go to Cambodia. The feel you get knowing you’re helping even a little bit is wonderful, and the food was seriously delicious.

 

The next day was our busy day: Angkor Wat. We found a good deal on a tuk tuk since it was way too much for us to walk. For $15, a tuk tuk driver drove us to buy tickets, to four different areas of Angkor Wat, and back to our hostel - a total of 7.5 hours. Some of the temples we saw were really awesome. On our “small circuit” tour, we saw Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Bayon temple, Baphuon, Ta Prohm, and Banteay Kdei. Ta Prohm is commonly known as the tomb raider temple. We got some fun pictures where Angelina Jolie stood in the movie, and the trees here were really awesome. The last one, known as the small Ta Prohm, was totally overrated and would have been a great one to not waste time on.

 

The night market in Siem Reap was awesome. So much stuff! I bought some sterling silver earrings since my ears have been empty the whole trip. We saw lots of handmade crafts along with the typical tourist junk. Another fun night attraction was Pub Street, which Feliks described as a much cooler version of Beale Street in Memphis. I wouldn’t quite put it that way, but this street was really awesome. It was the perfect mix of a relaxed and party atmosphere. There were lights everywhere and tons of live music. Fun fact: apparently all Asian countries (at least that we’ve been to) LOVE karaoke. Cambodia included. Across from our hostel there were two or three different karaokes bars rocking it from the early evening to the early morning. Very amusing.

 

I really loved Siem Reap. It was really weird to be in a place that was so “Westernized” for lack of a better word, but still I loved it. I would love to come back and get outside the city a bit to see how real Cambodians live. On the way from Bangkok to Siem Reap I feel like I saw some of this living, but I’d love to see more.

 

 

Phnom Penh

After how much I liked Siem Reap, I was excited to check out Phnom Penh. We arrived around 7pm after riding in a bus all day and headed to our host’s house a bit outside the city. Peter was a man from Nigeria who had been living in Phnom Penh for about two years. He took us to watch his friends and him play in a local soccer league game, and we explored the outside of the city to find some delicious fried rice for dinner, with some karaoke singing on the side.

 

Our first day in Phnom Penh we decided to start with the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum at the s-21 Prison. I didn’t know anything about this before researching Phnom Penh, but the country of Cambodia went through a major genocide in the 1970s. Over 3 million of 8 million total Cambodians were killed by a nut job man named ****** Pol Pet. The s-21 prison is where about 17,000 people were brought to be tortured, starved, and worked to death. Some would stay here for a few days, or up to three weeks. Then, if they weren’t killed there, they were shipped off to the killing fields (which we visited the next day). Most of the prisoners here were educated because those were seen as the biggest threat. A lot of them were hung at the gallows, or drowned in a mixture of their own feces and water. Out of 17,000 prisoners, only seven survived. Of those seven, four are alive today, and we got to meet two of them when we visited the prison.

 

After the s-21 prison, we needed something to lighten the mood. We thought the Russian Market would be a great place to walk around, and see if we could find any delicious treats that reminded us of Feliks’ parents’ house in Minnesota. For two days we were discussing how awesome it would be to find some borsht or other Russian snacks. We get to the market and there is nothing Russian about it. We asked, and apparently this specific market was started by the Russians many years ago, but there is nothing Russian about it today.

 

After the Russian market we picked up our bags from Peter’s and headed to a hostel that was in the center of the city. We were supposed to stay with Peter for all three nights, but he was a bit peculiar and not the typical couchsurfer. Most people who host couchsurfers are at least somewhat outgoing and talkative, and want to get to know you as a fellow lover of travel. Peter did not seem like he wanted to get to know us at all. I wouldn’t say it was a bad experience, but definitely our first strange one…very strange. After checking in to the hostel, we walked around city center and marked some things off of our list. We wanted to see two monuments, the Cambodian Vietnamese Friendship Monument and the Independence Monument. Both were very beautiful with the sun shining behind them. We also went to the Royal Palace, but decided not to go inside. From the outside it only looked mediocre, and Feliks read a few reviews that all said it doesn’t compare if you have seen the Grand Palace in Bangkok, which we just came from. We decided to save our $13 here.

 

A nice walk along the harbor brought us to Wat Phnom, a temple we found just so-so and chose not to go inside. Right down the street from this temple was the Central Market, which we walked around and enjoyed sightseeing. This market was huge! It was very nice compared to many markets we’ve been to, and very organized. Half of it was even under a covered roof. After this extremely long day, we headed back to the hostel, ate some dinner, and relaxed.

 

Our second day in Phnom Penh we had only one thing left on our list: the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek. I mentioned this when talking about the s-21 prison. When regime was ready, prisoners were moved from the s-21 prison to the killing fields purely for the reason to be killed. This is just one of many killing fields all over the country, but it is the most known. Here there is a really informative audio tour (included in the $6 ticket). You see various mass graves where thousands of people have been murdered for no good reason. You see real teeth and bones in the walkway that haven’t been excavated yet, along with cloths from children’s clothing. A memorial in the center of the fields now houses thousands of skulls and bones of the victims that were killed here. You learn the ruthlessness of the people who were in charge of this prison, and that they used whatever the cheapest, inhumane methods of killing. Guns were rarely used. One common murder weapon was a leaf of a palm tree, where the side is just as jagged as shark teeth.

 

Overall, Phnom Penh was a nice city, but the majority of the tourist things we did there left us sad. Having said that, my eyes were opened to a major genocide that I had no clue even happened before visiting this country, and I am very grateful that I now know the horrors that happened here, but even more so to see how Cambodia has grown from this experience and joined hands in unity.

His View 

Cambodia - Feliks' perspective

 

Siem Reap

There was not a train that went from Thailand to Cambodia, so by bus we went. Our first taste of this country was at the border. This experience really made an impression on me but it would not last long. We had a somewhat difficult time getting our papers in order, but after about an hour we managed to get the visa and approval to enter the country. The border crossing was one of the most commercial I’ve ever seen.There was a casino between the two borders, stores, and tons of people crossing both ways. It seemed like a busy and serious place. 

 

We arrived in Siem Reap late in the evening. Our bus company provided a free tuk tuk to our hostel but not without the driver trying to sell us on a tour. Do not buy them because as soon as we walked into the hostel we saw the same tour for $5 less. We were mostly there to see the temples and the hostel had a couple different tours to choose from. 

 

We spent our first day walking around the markets. We bought a couple of things and learned the art of Cambodian haggling. First, if you even look in the direction of a shop, the worker will immediately jump on you. When you ask the price of anything, they triple the actual price. So, first, what ever number they give you, say $6, you come back with no more that $3, maybe even $2 depending on how busy the market is. Stick your ground, act interested, and continue to say your price. The owner will act as if you are insulting them, that the price you want is too low, that you are crazy. When this happens, put down the item and politely say thank you and start walking away. 9 out of 10 times they will give in and make the deal with you. If not, there is another one around the corner selling the same thing that will. 

 

Also, this is weird, but in Siem Reap, the main currency is US dollars. Most of the shops and restaurants have prices in US dollars. This was interesting to us but it is clear that this is because Siem Reap is a straight tourist town. As we walked around the city, we checked out a temple that was on the edge of town, a couple busy shop streets, and a couple of different markets. Most places had english menus, everyone spoke english, there were even places offering American breakfast. The main part of town seemed to be around the night markets. There were hotels on every corner and nothing but restaurants and bars in between. The music seemed to never stop as we could hear it from our hostel all night long. 

 

Our second day in Siem Reap was the temple tour day. I was pretty excited, especially for the Tomb Raider temple. We hired a Tuk Tuk through the hostel that took us to four temples for about 8 hours for only $15. The first temple, Angkor Wat, was the biggest and the most intact. It really did look like something out of a movie. The walkway leading up to the main gate, the halls, the carvings on the walls, everything was almost fake looking, like you were at a ride in Universal Studios. The temple itself was somewhat similar to the ruins we saw in Ayutthaya but actually still standing. Definitely worth the visit. 

 

Next was Angkor Thom, much bigger in land area but a smaller building, There were a number of different structures within this area but we mainly visited two. The Bayon, the craziest temple ever, and the Baphuon, a giant pyramid structure. The Bayon had faces carved everywhere which was pretty cool. The temple was not very big but it was like a maze. At the Baphuon, there were a lot of stairs to climb for a decent view of the entrance pools. I think we were both just too anxious to get to the Tomb Raider temple that we decided to leave the rest and go on. 

 

The Tomb Raider temple is actually called Ta Prohm. This was by far my favorite of the day. The temple was in ruins. There were rocks everywhere, Do Not Enter signs, and yellow tape. There were also really big trees growing on top of the temple. The plaque at the entrance said that this temple was one of the few to be left in its natural state. It would not be restored, rather maintained. The trees are basically demolishing this place. Their seeds start growing in the rocks where the roots wedge into every crack becoming part of the structural support. When the trees die and the roots disintegrate, the cracks that are left cause the stone blocks to crumble. It's a great example of what happens when nature takes a building back. 

 

After the 45 minute drive home it was time for some resting because walking in the sun for six hours really takes a toll. We had a relaxing night and did another fish massage by some massive fish. We could actually feel each fish scrapping the bottom of our feet. This was much better than the previous fish massage. When we checked out the night market a little more, I did something I will never forget. 

 

There was a street vendor selling fried things: fried crickets, meal worms, snakes, and tarantulas. Caywood was encouraging but unwilling to take part. Lucky, there was a lady brave enough to give it a shot. I got the spider and she got the snake. Tarantula legs are actually somewhat sweet and tasty; the mid and rear section are the most disgusting tasting things ever. I almost could not hold them down. The snake on the other hand was really good. It actually tasted a lot like the dried fish I got in Thailand. 

 

Overall, Siem Reap is like Orlando, built around the tourist. Don’t get me wrong, it was a blast, I really liked the town, but it's not a place to spend a week. The temples were really good and a must visit if in Cambodia. There are other things to do beside the temple but I would think that there are places to get much better local experiences around Cambodia. You can find pretty much any kind of souvenir at the markets and it's pretty fun to bargain with the merchants. It was a great couple of days to hangout and enjoy the perks of being a tourist. WiFi and bathrooms were pretty much at every restaurant and all you had to do is ask.  

 

 

Phnom Penh

This is the capital of Cambodia, so there was lots to do and see, or so I was expecting. To be completely honest, the most interesting part about this visit was learning about the genocide in Cambodia. The rest of the stuff we saw was nothing special that we hadn't seen somewhere else. Of course they had their own flare and personality that stood out but for the most part it was regular city stuff. 

 

Our entire stay in Phnom Penh was scheduled to be with a couchsurfer. We got to his place, which was somewhat outside of the city center, at 8pm. Immediately after arriving at his place we headed out to watch him play in a soccer match. It was a cool experience watching some locals play soccer. Some of them were actually pretty good and hilarious. Some of them got really heated about a call made by the ref and there were some words being tossed around. For the most part it was very entertaining.

 

The next day we headed out to see the S21 Genocide Prison. I honestly had no idea that something like this happened in Cambodia, especially in the 70’s. There is a lot more to it, but to put it shortly, some guy wanted to turn Cambodia into a Communist country. He imprisoned all the educated people and their families, eventually killing all of them. He did this because he knew people with education would fight the change. He killed their families too because he did not want anyone trying to get revenge. So, if you went to college in the 70’s and lived in Cambodia, you and your entire family would be in prison. 3 million out of 8 million Cambodians were killed during this time. Yes, that is almost half the population. 

 

The prison museum we visited was an old school that had some 20,000 prisoners make it through the front doors. Only 7 survived. The images in the rooms, the stories on the walls, the entire place just made me sad for humanity. How could people do this to each other and how could others not do anything to stop it. It was a very sad experience but a valuable education lesson. 

 

After the museum we made a short walk over to the Russian market, which had nothing Russian about it. At one point, Russians were in Cambodia and they started this market; that's the only reason it is called that. It's a normal market other than that. As we had a little time to burn we found some WiFi and did some additional research on the rest of the city. We decided that based on our location it would be better for us to get a hostel in the city center versus paying for transportation back and forth. We headed to our host's house and broke the news. 

 

Our hostel was right in the center of the city and we wasted no time. We got there about 3 pm and started walking. We saw some monuments, parks, more monuments, and then the Royal Palace. We did not go inside. Honestly, it did not look that impressive after seeing the one in Bangkok. We walked toward the river and saw a yellow brick square. Really yellow tiles lined this entire square, really weird color choice I think. The river was lined with flags from all over the world and that was kind of cool to see. We walked some more to the Central Market. 

 

I think this was the biggest market we’ve been to so far. It was almost like a giant spider web. The center was a tall covered structure with mostly jewelry merchants. Any direction you look from there were rows of little shops spanning out like the lines of a web. It was really big and everything was mostly organized by products. All the fancy clothes were in one section, all the tourist stuff was together, and so on. 

 

Our last full day was filled with a visit to the Killing Fields just outside the city. This was where the prisoners went to be killed after being tortured. This was only one of a few killing fields in the area and a lot of people died there. I don't remember all the details but the number of mass graves I will never forget. I will also never forget reading “bones and teeth make it up to the surface as the ground moves," then seeing human teeth and bones in the dirt as you walk around the place. Again, nothing but sadness for humanity. I did find the monument building the most memorable. See this in the pictures. 

 

Overall, I am glad we visited this city. While the city is nothing super special, at least not to me, learning about the genocide was worth it. Again, I had no idea that something like this happened in the 70’s. There are people in Cambodia who are still affected by this. Most people over 50 years old lived through this event. It's crazy to even try and comprehend the scars something like that would leave. I would have no reason to visit the city again but would really encourage others to see the history for themselves. 

Siem Reap, Wat Bo

Siem Reap, Wat Bo

Siem Reap, Wat Bo

Siem Reap, Wat Bo

Siem Reap, old market

Siem Reap, old market

Siem Reap, Wat Phom

Siem Reap, Wat Phom

Siem Reap, Angkor Night Market

Siem Reap, Angkor Night Market

Siem Reap, fish pedicures

Siem Reap, fish pedicures

Siem Reap, fish pedicures

Siem Reap, fish pedicures

Siem Reap, fish pedicures

Siem Reap, fish pedicures

Siem Reap, Angkor Wat

Siem Reap, Angkor Wat

Siem Reap, Angkor Wat

Siem Reap, Angkor Wat

Siem Reap, Angkor Wat

Siem Reap, Angkor Wat

Siem Reap, Angkor Wat

Siem Reap, Angkor Wat

Siem Reap, Angkor Wat

Siem Reap, Angkor Wat

Siem Reap, Angkor Wat

Siem Reap, Angkor Wat

Siem Reap, Angkor Wat

Siem Reap, Angkor Wat

Siem Reap, Angkor Wat

Siem Reap, Angkor Wat

Siem Reap, Angkor Wat

Siem Reap, Angkor Wat

Siem Reap, Angkor Wat

Siem Reap, Angkor Wat

Siem Reap, Angkor Thom Bayon

Siem Reap, Angkor Thom Bayon

Siem Reap, Angkor Thom Bayon

Siem Reap, Angkor Thom Bayon

Siem Reap, Angkor Thom Bayon

Siem Reap, Angkor Thom Bayon

Siem Reap, Angkor Thom Bayon

Siem Reap, Angkor Thom Bayon

Siem Reap, Angkor Thom Bayon

Siem Reap, Angkor Thom Bayon

Siem Reap, Angkor Thom Bayon

Siem Reap, Angkor Thom Bayon

Siem Reap, Angkor Thom Bayon

Siem Reap, Angkor Thom Bayon

Siem Reap, Angkor Thom Bayon

Siem Reap, Angkor Thom Bayon

Siem Reap, Angkor Thom Bayon

Siem Reap, Angkor Thom Bayon

Siem Reap, Angkor Thom Bayon

Siem Reap, Angkor Thom Bayon

Siem Reap, Angkor Thom Bayon

Siem Reap, Angkor Thom Bayon

Siem Reap, police hard at work

Siem Reap, police hard at work

Siem Reap, Ta Prohm

Siem Reap, Ta Prohm

Siem Reap, Ta Prohm

Siem Reap, Ta Prohm

Siem Reap, Ta Prohm

Siem Reap, Ta Prohm

Siem Reap, Ta Prohm

Siem Reap, Ta Prohm

Siem Reap, Ta Prohm

Siem Reap, Ta Prohm

Siem Reap, Angkor Night Market

Siem Reap, Angkor Night Market

Siem Reap, Pub Street

Siem Reap, Pub Street

Siem Reap, Pub Street, spiders

Siem Reap, Pub Street, spiders

Siem Reap, Pub Street, snakes

Siem Reap, Pub Street, snakes

Phnom Penh, s21 Prison

Phnom Penh, s21 Prison

Phnom Penh, s21 Prison

Phnom Penh, s21 Prison

Phnom Penh, s21 Prison

Phnom Penh, s21 Prison

Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh, harbour

Phnom Penh, harbour

Phnom Penh, harbour

Phnom Penh, harbour

Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh, night market

Phnom Penh, night market

Phnom Penh, scooter madness

Phnom Penh, scooter madness

Phnom Penh, Independence Monument

Phnom Penh, Independence Monument

Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh

Cambodia-Vietnam Friendship Monument

Cambodia-Vietnam Friendship Monument

Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh, harbour

Phnom Penh, harbour

Phnom Penh, central market

Phnom Penh, central market

Phnom Penh, beef lok lak

Phnom Penh, beef lok lak

Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh, Killing Fields, tooth

Phnom Penh, Killing Fields, tooth

Phnom Penh, Killing Fields, bones

Phnom Penh, Killing Fields, bones

Phnom Penh, Killing Fields, skulls

Phnom Penh, Killing Fields, skulls

Phnom Penh, Killing Fields

Phnom Penh, Killing Fields

Phnom Penh, Killing Fields, graves

Phnom Penh, Killing Fields, graves

Phnom Penh, Killing Fields, graves

Phnom Penh, Killing Fields, graves

Phnom Penh, Killing Fields

Phnom Penh, Killing Fields

Phnom Penh, Killing Fields, graves

Phnom Penh, Killing Fields, graves

Phnom Penh, Killing Fields

Phnom Penh, Killing Fields

Phnom Penh, Killing Fields

Phnom Penh, Killing Fields

Phnom Penh, Killing Fields

Phnom Penh, Killing Fields

Phnom Penh, Killing Fields Monument

Phnom Penh, Killing Fields Monument

Passionfruit: My new favorite

Passionfruit: My new favorite

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