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Her View 

Greece - Caywood's perspective

 

Thessaloniki

Our first stop in Greece was Thessaloniki. We arrived late at night and headed straight for our Air B&B host's apartment. Walking to his place from the train station, it was past 11pm on a Tuesday and I couldn't believe how many people were still out and about on the streets. Our host Kyriakos informed us that Greeks typically have no time table, are very laid back, and don't like schedules. It makes sense now.

 

After a good night's rest, we started our day with a traditional Greek pastry for breakfast. A bougatsa is a flaky pastry filled with cream, cheese, or minced meat. It was delicious. After that, we walked first to a church recommended by our host, Hagios Demetrios. If you've read any of our previous posts I think it's obvious that we are getting sick of seeing churches, but I'm glad we went in this one. The difference in Greek churches to the others we've been in thus far was really interesting. A wooden roof rather than intricate tiles, the paintings inside were very different. Even the culture of those visiting the church from a religious perspective was different. We saw a lot of people walking around the edge of the church kissing every single painting of Jesus Christ on the walls. I had never seen that before.

 

After two other churches we headed to Ano poli, which is their historic part of town. Next was a hike up to the top of their Acropolis, which was on our list because it's a great place to view the entire city as well as Mount Olympus. Unforunately for us, our only day in Thessaloniki was 100% cloudy. Once we got to the top we could not see a thing, not even the buildings that we had just come from. The hike was fun and an adventure in itself though; we saw a LOT of cats and a LOT of orange trees.

 

After climbing back down from Acropolis, we went to see the Rotunda (an old church, it was under construction on the inside) and the Arch of Galerius. Both pretty structures and I'm sure with lots of history. It was next to the Rotunda that we got a delicious pork gyro. Feliks and I are officially addicted to taziki sauce. We then walked past the ruins of the Palace of Galerius, which was really neat to see. There are ruins everywhere in Thessaloniki. So far, Greece reminds me a lot of Rome (and for good reason).

 

Our next stop was to walk to the harbor and go to the White Tower. I guess I didn't do enough research, because I thought the White Tower was just a point to view the city and the water. Once we got inside, I found out there was much more to it than that. For four euros total (student price), we got a 6-story lesson on the history of the city of Thessaloniki. The free audio guide in english was very helpful to learn how the city became what it is today. Once we got up to the top, there was the view I was anticipating. But again, it was a very cloudy day. Our last hour or so in Thessaloniki was spent wandering around the city to see what else we could stumble upon. I like Thessaloniki. I could tell there was a lot of history there, and the people seemed very friendly.

 

 

Crete

My cousin Renee, who we visited at the beginning of our trip in Manchester, went to Crete for her recent birthday and had some great stories to tell. I’ve also heard about how beautiful this area was, being the largest of the Greek islands and covered with both mountains and beaches. We took a ferry over from Athens to Heraklion and rented our own studio apartment for three days. This was a really awesome relaxation period for us. We cooked three meals a day, even had steaks one night for dinner, and went to the beach. Five days before Christmas we were on the sandy beach with 63 degree weather. It was beautiful. We caught up on our sleep, met quite a few stray cats and dogs, and spent some time exploring the olive tree farm that our studio was built on. 

 

Greece is a beautiful place. Crete is a spectacular place. You look to your left and there’s endless farmland. You look to your right and there’s the beach and the shore of the Mediterranean Sea. And then right in front of you is a huge mountain. The locals we met were very friendly, and the views were one of a kind. As Greece’s biggest island, Crete is 600 km wide and 100 km tall. Unfortunately due to our time frame, we only got to explore the Heraklion area and nearby beach. We definitely would love to come back and rent a car so we could explore the various parts of the island. Our taxi driver also recommended another smaller island not too far from Crete that he called the “romance island.” Hmm… potential honeymoon destination?!

 

 

Athens

Athens in Greece is very similar to Rome in Italy. I may have even like Athens better. We allowed for two and a half days to cover all of Athens, which was really tough. Seriously, the amount of ruins and historical places there is insane. Our first day was spent seeing some great views of the city and exploring in some forested areas at the Philopappos Hill. This area, although I’m not sure its exact name, was tremendous. We got to see some beautiful sights including the whole city, the nearby water, the Philopappos Monument, the Acropolis, and so much more. We had a blast when we found a really unique ruin called the Seven Thrones. After the climb to the top to see the monument, we climbed right back down another way to do some more exploring. This green area was truly beautiful, and so peaceful. It would have been a great place for a picnic.

 

Next we went to a delicious restaurant for some traditional gyros, and headed to the neighborhood of Plaka to see some local houses and a local market. The market in Plaka actually has a shop called Byzantine which is well-known for their handmade jewelry that resembles museum pieces… AKA the necklaces, rings, and bracelets are all yellow gold with bright stones and very gaudy. I loved looking at them! That ended our first day in Athens, then we hopped a ferry to a Greek island for a few days before heading back to Athens.

 

Once we got back to Athens, the rest of our time was spent looking at all of the ruins that reminded me of Rome. Athens has a pass where you can pay 12 euros for the Acropolis and seven other archaeological sites. This is definitely a deal to know about, since the Acropolis alone is 12 euros a person. The other sites included the Roman Agora, the Ancient Agora, the Temple of Olympian Zeus, Theater of Dionysus, Hadrian’s Library, and one other small site. Naturally since we paid for the combo ticket we wanted to do every single thing to get our money’s worth, and we did. Honestly the ruins do start to get a bit repetitive after a while, as all ruins do. I strongly recommend that the Ancient Agora be the first or second thing you do. We did this one last and it was huge. If we had done it first we would have enjoyed it a lot more and done more of what it had to offer. While most of the other sites were small and had maybe one or two things to look at, this one probably had over ten things to see.

 

Obviously Athens is most well-known for the Parthenon at the Acropolis of Athens. We decided to save this one for last to end our time in the city with a bang. Even in the winter, this venue was packed with tourists. In Acropolis there actually is much more to see than just the Parthenon. The Parthenon is surrounded by a variety of other temples and monuments, as well as theaters. Right before the Acropolis we visited the New Acropolis Museum because we heard it was very well done. This wasn’t included in our combo ticket, but it wasn’t too pricey and there were lots of cool artifacts and statues. This included some great information on a lot of the Greek Gods, and ended with a great short film that gave the history of the Acropolis, the Parthenon, and Greece in general. The film alternated between English and Greek which was really awesome, too.

 

Our final stop on the way to the train station to leave Athens was to check out the Monastiraki flea market. We got a great gyro here. It was an interesting market, but we were both surprised to see the majority of what was being sold was antique furniture.

His View 

Greece - Feliks' perspective

 

Thessaloniki

First city in Greece and I was pumped! I could not wait to get my mouth on a steaming hot gyro with a mountain of tiziki sauce! We arrived pretty late at night and had a decent walk to the place we were staying, so I would have to wait for the delicious Greek meal. 

We had plenty to do in the city and we got started early. We checked out a couple of churches, pretty small, very unique though - Hagios Demetrios and Church of St. Nicholas Orphans. They weren’t the type of place that you put on a postcard, but the type you read about in history books. Both churches were somewhat on the way to our destination at the top of the hill, the Acropolis Walls. It was pretty tall, brick, parts looked like they had a couple of battles with the weather. The wall stretched beyond what we were willing to walk but there were plenty of pass throughs for people and one that we saw for cars. I’m sure there were many more. As we got to the wall and looked back at the hill that we climbed, we got an awesome view of the city, all the way to the sea. Unfortunately for us it was somewhat foggy but we still got some good glimpses.

 

After the much shorter walk down, we checked out the Rotunda and the very closeby Arch of Galerius. The Rotunda was a weird building compared to what we had seen in the past. It was a round building, the name gives that away, but it was short, maybe 4 stories tall. Inside it felt the same way but for some reason it seemed wider and shorter. The Rotunda was my favorite so far because right outside the entrance was a nice little restaurant that had gyros for one euro! This would be the first of many gyros we would enjoy in Greece. I love tiziki sauce! 

 

The Arch of Galerius was not that interesting at first. It was when we walked down a couple blocks toward the ocean where we saw Galerius’s Palace that it really got my attention. The palace actually spanned this entire area, what looked like three blocks by six blocks, maybe even bigger. They had some ruins that were uncovered with theoretical drawings of what the palace looked like. Massive complex.  

We only had one more main stop, the White Tower: a tower right on the water that was now a museum. We go the audio guide inside and it definitely helped us not skip more than we did because there was a lot to read. The stairs to go up felt like they went on forever but the view from the top was worth it. We learned a lot about Thessaloniki and why it was such an important city for a lot of military campaigns. 

 

Overall, the city was pretty cool. It was one of those medium-size cities with the small town feel. I really liked that they had ruins from forever ago just sitting in the middle of the streets. Also, when we were walking from the train station, they were in the process of an archeological dig under the main road. We walked by and could see straight down into what they were doing while thousands of cars passed over their heads. I love gyros! I think this would be a good low key place to hang out and enjoy the city life of Greece. WiFi was easy to find and public bathrooms were around. 

 

 

Crete 

We had three solid days and not a lot planned, It was going to be a perfect break. We took the overnight ferry from Athens which took about 9 hours. The port apparently runs a little late because both times it was about an hour late arriving. Departure was scheduled for nine at night and we were some of the first on board at 7:00. Lucky we were because some people had to sleep on solid chairs in the restaurant while we were able to hold down a nice comfortable couch. 

 

Crete is a huge island. There was not a lot of places for us to walk to because everything was so spread out. We got a taxi to our AirBnB, which we conveniently picked to be close to the beach. Caywood found an awesome little spot; it was two studio apartments in an L shape setup on an olive orchard. Our room was pretty big with a king size bed, full kitchen, full bathroom, and a grill outside. Around the area were a couple houses that didn't make a single noise, minus the occasional dog bark. 

 

Most of the time we just lounged around and relaxed. We did walk to the beach one day and that was a fun experience. The walk took about 30 minutes and was pretty easy, It was what we encountered that was fun. There were quite a few houses along the way that had dogs, anywhere from 1 to 8 that I remember. As soon as the dogs heard the footsteps, it was "bark bark bark" until you were well out of sight. Most of the dogs were behind fences while some where chained up. We really had a nice surprise when a massive German Shepard jumped out of nowhere and voiced his opinion about 5 feet from Caywood's ear. We both ended up on the other side of the road.

 

The beach was a little different from what I was expecting, mostly because I did not read about the beaches on Crete. This particular beach was very rocky. The sandy stuff was almost exclusively by the water and even that had a couple of lines of rocks from the waves. It was almost entirely empty minus a few older locals weathering themselves in the freezing water. Well, it wasn't that cold just not pleasant. We both got a little sun and went back to doing nothing. It was awesome. 

 

Overall, I have nothing really to say about Crete. It was awesome not doing anything and relaxing for a few days. I would recommend renting a car if you go. The public transportation does nothing for tourists. From the area that we were in, we saw cliffs, rolling hills, valleys, and islands in the Mediterranean. I think that we would have explored a lot more had we had a mode of transportation. 

 

 

Athens

When I think about this city, I think about the movie 300. Not the characters but the city. The stone walls, columns, triangular roofs, huge courtyards, outdoor markets...things like that. Athens was just a little bit different. First thing that I will say is that either Athens residents all like the same style of housing or one architect built 70% of the apartment buildings from the same set of blueprints. There are so many apartment buildings that look identical, the concrete slab style with massive balconies sticking right out the side. Apart from anomaly the rest of Athens was breathtaking. You had mountains almost entirely surrounding the city, and in the center was Acropolis. Sitting high on a small mount of its own, you can almost see it from anywhere in Athens. Right next to it is Mt. Lycabettus, which is actually higher but has more greenery to hide the buildings. All around these two massive peaks is flat area that stretches to the mountains. I’ve never seen anything like it. 

 

Since Athens was so big and there was so much to do, we ended up splitting it into two visits. The first visit was before we went to Crete. Our train arrived early in the morning and the ferry did not leave until after dinner so we did most of the walking then. On our way back from Crete we arrived early but booked a hostel for the night so we had two more days. 

 

The first day we took our time and explored Philopappou Hill near Acropolis. There were remnants of a city all over the place. The foundations were very visible and some of the streets and stairs. We found some really awesome views of the city from here, especially by the Monument Philopappos. Perfect for panoramic pictures, and just to simply see the size of the city. There are also some random things that we found, like the seven chairs. Chairs that were carved into the stone all right next to each other. You also have to see the sewer that runs through the center which is impressive on the fact that they had one. Some countries today don't even have a waste management system. 

 

Walking through the park was somewhat exhausting so we took it easy from there. We strolled through the Plaka area. It starts by the exit for Acropolis and leads you down a walking street full of shops and then restaurants just before you reach the Roman Agora and the massive flea market. From a tourist point of view, it was very convenient. This pretty much rounded out our day as we had pretty much walked around most of the tourist attractions without actually going in. 

 

Our second and third day in Athens, after Crete, we were on a mission to experience all the attractions. On our first day, we found out that there is a twelve euro pass that gets you into all the ruins and is valid for four days. We bought ours at the Acropolis ticket gate. Oddly enough our fist stop was not on the list of included attractions, the Museum of Acropolis. It was a really interesting building, especially compared to the apartments around it. From a distance, it was a two story rectangular structure but someone rotated the second floor about fifteen degrees to offset the edges. When you approach the entrance, you are literally walking over a dig site that is being prepared for visitors. You can see through the glass floor the outlines of houses, walls, wells, and various other things. Inside the museum is the stuff you would expect: lots and lots and lots of old Greek stuff. Statues, sections of buildings, jewels, carvings, and other neat museum stuff. They did have a nice short film on the top floor that was decently entertaining. After the Museum we were ready for Acropolis. 

 

The walk to the top didn't seem as bad as I had expected when looking from a distance. It was a pretty cool climb to begin with, through the main entrance and up the stairs. I don't know a whole lot about construction, but I do know that the people that built this were limited on technology. How they managed to first get all the stones so straight and perfectly-aligned, and second move those stones into position on top of this hill, is mind boggling and impressive. I’ve seen it on TV and read about it but until you see it for yourself you just really can't appreciate the work that had to have gone into this city. 

We walked around and checked out the rest of the ruins, which were in the process of being reconstructed. It was pretty cool how they were doing it, basically filling in the holes with concrete and leaving as much original stone as possible. All around Acropolis are a handful of other ruins. Theatre of Dionysus, Odeon of Herodes Atticus, Roman Agora, and Ancient Agora. I’m sure there’s more but those are the ones we had on our list. The first couple ruins we looked at, I was floored, the size and precision that was needed to build these things was so impressive. After about the fourth site, I was getting over it. Ruins are cool, I just think we saw way too many in the two days. 

 

Overall, I really liked Athens. The city is huge but did not always feel like it was moving at the speed of light. I really liked where the city was located and the surrounding landscape. From Monument Philopappos you could see everything and I bet it's a highly visited spot by locals. The food is obviously awesome! I love tiziki sauce. They had a pretty good public transportation system too. Most of the tourist attractions had free bathrooms otherwise they were far and few in between. WiFi was also spotty, some of the indoor attractions had it but most were protected. I would love to come back and explore more of Athens, especially the nature side. 

Thessaloniki, Galerius' Arch

Thessaloniki, Galerius' Arch

Thessaloniki, Rotunda

Thessaloniki, Rotunda

Thessaloniki, Acropolis Walls

Thessaloniki, Acropolis Walls

Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki, Aristotelous Square

Thessaloniki, Aristotelous Square

Thessaloniki, Church Prophetes Elias

Thessaloniki, Church Prophetes Elias

Thessaloniki, Galerius' Palace

Thessaloniki, Galerius' Palace

Thessaloniki, Breakfast

Thessaloniki, Breakfast

Gyros

Gyros

Thessaloniki, White Tower

Thessaloniki, White Tower

Thessaloniki, White Tower

Thessaloniki, White Tower

Thessaloniki, White Tower

Thessaloniki, White Tower

Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki, bay

Thessaloniki, bay

Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki

Crete

Crete

Crete

Crete

Crete

Crete

Crete

Crete

Crete

Crete

Crete

Crete

Crete

Crete

Crete, steak meal

Crete, steak meal

Crete

Crete

Crete, sand castle

Crete, sand castle

Crete, olive tree plantation

Crete, olive tree plantation

Athens, Temple of Olympian Zues

Athens, Temple of Olympian Zues

Athens, Temple of Olympian Zues

Athens, Temple of Olympian Zues

Athens, Temple of Olympian Zues

Athens, Temple of Olympian Zues

Athens, Temple of Olympian Zues

Athens, Temple of Olympian Zues

Athens, Olympic Stadium

Athens, Olympic Stadium

Athens, Ancient Agora

Athens, Ancient Agora

Athens, Ancient Agora

Athens, Ancient Agora

Athens, Roman Agora

Athens, Roman Agora

Athens, Theatre of Dionysus

Athens, Theatre of Dionysus

Athens, Theatre of Dionysus

Athens, Theatre of Dionysus

Athens, Odeon of Herodes Atticus

Athens, Odeon of Herodes Atticus

Athens, Acropolis

Athens, Acropolis

Athens, Parthenon

Athens, Parthenon

Athens, Acropolis

Athens, Acropolis

Athens, Acropolis stairs

Athens, Acropolis stairs

Athens, View from Acropolis

Athens, View from Acropolis

Athens, Acropolis

Athens, Acropolis

Athens, View from Acropolis

Athens, View from Acropolis

Athens, Acropolis

Athens, Acropolis

Athens, View from Acropolis

Athens, View from Acropolis

Athens, Acropolis

Athens, Acropolis

Athens

Athens

Athens, Monument Philopappos

Athens, Monument Philopappos

Athens, Monument Philopappos

Athens, Monument Philopappos

Athens, Monument Philopappos

Athens, Monument Philopappos

Athens, Arch of Hadrian

Athens, Arch of Hadrian

Athens, Roman Agora

Athens, Roman Agora

Athens, Roman Agora

Athens, Roman Agora

Athens, Roman Agora

Athens, Roman Agora

Athens, Filopappou Hill

Athens, Filopappou Hill

Athens, Filopappou Hill

Athens, Filopappou Hill

Athens, Filopappou Hill

Athens, Filopappou Hill

Athens, View from Mnmt Philopappos

Athens, View from Mnmt Philopappos

Athens, Filopappou Hill

Athens, Filopappou Hill

Athens, Filopappou Hill

Athens, Filopappou Hill

Athens, mural

Athens, mural

Next stop: Turkey

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