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Her View 

Germany - Caywood's perspective

 

Hamburg

When we got into Hamburg, I was excited for our first city in Germany. When I think of visiting Germany as a tourist, I think of Berlin and Munich; I don’t think I had actually heard of Hamburg before our planning. Having said that, Hamburg was an awesome German city. We arrived in Hamburg after a long train ride overnight from Copenhagen. Our plan in Hamburg was the same as a lot of cities: to walk around the city center, see what we come across, and hit things on our list as we go. Our first stop was to walk through a large public park, Planten un Blomen. This park was beautiful, filled with hundreds of ducks, ponds of all sizes, luscious greenery, and even a public skating rink. We considered doing the ice skating rink, but chose not to after finding out the price of 10 euros per person; we decided that we would research another ice rink in an upcoming country that was a little cheaper.

 

After our walk through the park, I had to use the restroom and the public WC (that costs .50 euro) ate our money. Therefore, we decided it was time for a German beer for Feliks and then I could use the restroom. We stopped in a quaint little bar on Reeperbahn Street and Feliks got a beer that was locally brewed in Hamburg. He said the beer was pretty good, and the bartender was nice and gave us the recommendation to go into the elbtunnel down the way. After the beer glass and my bladder were both emptied, we headed to the Saint Pauli Elbtunnel. This underground tunnel is about 1.25 km long, and allows both pedestrians and vehicles to go under the harbor to the other side of the Elbe River. This was awesome. For no entrance fee, we got to walk under a river through this tunnel and come out the other side with amazing views of the harbor. The Hamburg Harbor is actually the 3rd largest harbor in the world, coming after only New York and London.

 

Next we spent quite a while exploring the city and walking through shopping areas, by magnificent churches, and along canals. The area known as Jungernstieg was their major shopping area for all of the designer names. We walked around this area people watching, admiring the various buildings, and the canals. I will say that Hamburg’s canals have nothing on Amsterdam. On the end of one canal we got to see a statue of a dragon, which the plaque explained (in German and English!) that gets displayed every other year. The last stop on our list was a museum recommended to us by Alvin, a fellow traveler that we met on the bus ride from London to Brussles. Miniatur Wunderland is a three-story exhibit of miniatures and model trains. There is no way I can describe this place that will do it justice. Each room is themed as a different country and includes some well-known landmarks from that country, as well as some self-created things. When we were there, the model area covered 1300 square meters and consisted of 8 theme worlds. They are working on additions right now and expect to have a total of 2300 square meters of area with a total of 12 theme worlds by completion in 2020. As it stands today, the track length for the model trains is over 13,000 meters long with 930 running trains, 14,450 wagons, over 335,000 lights, 215,000 figurines, and 228,000 trees. Construction time up to this point has been 580,000 hours, and they expect to add 300,000 more over the next six years. The themed countries include Germany, Austria, Switzerland, the US, and Scandinavia. It is truly mind boggling how much time, effort, and detail was put into every single piece of this exhibit. It was easily one of the coolest things I’ve seen thus far, and I’d love to go back. It’s the type of place with so much detail that you could go see this exhibit for hours at a time five or six times, and never even come close to seeing all that it has to offer.

 

Berlin

Arriving in Berlin late at night, we went straight to our hostel. After a night’s sleep, we woke up bright and early to grab the free breakfast at the hostel and start our walking. Our hostel offered a free walking tour of Berlin that we decided to do, but changed our minds once we found out they actually wanted you to pay for bus fare. We like our steps. Our first stop was Europe’s 4th largest free-standing building, the Berliner Fernsehturm. I think Feliks loved this building; to me, it was alright. The thing that made my day was the three random mini trampolines in the middle of the square outside this tower. I have no clue why they were there, but they were awesome. You’d never see that in America. Next on our list was to walk to Museum Island, which consisted of four museums about Germany’s art and history. We aren’t huge museum people as I’m sure you’ve already noticed, so we saved our money and just admired the outside of the intricate buildings. In front of one of the museums we saw this awesome street performer that was making the biggest bubbles I’ve ever seen - see the photo below. 

 

Next we had a decent walk to Charlie Checkpoint, one of the places where the Berlin Wall used to be and still home to a segment of it. We checked out the piece of the wall and walked around the area. My favorite part here was a little photo booth we found. Next was to walk through the Gendarmenmarkt, a downtown shopping area of Berlin. There were definitely lots of tourists here so we just walked around, got a meal from one of the supermarkets, and stumbled upon a few interesting sculptures and buildings.

 

Our second day in Berlin started off with a walk to the Berlin Wall Memorial, where a large section of the actual wall is still intact. This was definitely neater than Charlie Checkpoint because you saw much more of the wall, and you can even see the years of graffiti all over it. There were also quite a few plaques that explained about the wall and people who lost their lives there so many years ago. After the wall exhibit we walked to the Brandenburg Gate, where we made sandwiches in the park behind the gate. The gate was exquisite to see, but there were so many tourists! Our last two stops were the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe and the Reichstag building. The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe was a beautiful exhibit - breathtaking. I wish it were more clearly marked though because the whole time we were looking at it and walking through, we weren’t 100% sure that we were even at the right exhibit. More explanation would have been nice, but the memorial was done so well. The Reichstag building was cool to see because of the large dome on top; this is the German Parliament building.

 

Overall, my biggest complaint about Berlin was that it didn’t feel German to me. The whole time, I felt like I was in another country and I couldn’t put my finger on the exact reason. But I didn’t feel like I was in Germany. I hope Munich leaves me with a different feeling.

 

 

Munich

Munich: the birthplace of the Nazi party and the beer capital of the world. I visited Munich in 2007, but didn't’ remember much about it besides the Hofbrauhaus and the day trip to Dachau. Going back I was excited to experience the city in a different way - seven years matured (senior in high school vs. 3-year college graduate), and experience it with my significant other rather than a group from school. Munich did not disappoint.

 

We decided to do our first walking tour in Munich. We found a great company online that does free walking tours and kindly ask you to tip to the level that you enjoyed the tour. We were with our guide for nearly four hours, and got to see and learn much about the city today as well as its history. Munich was a key target of bombings in WW2 since it is the birthplace of the Nazi party. Because of this, nearly the entire city was destroyed from over 3.5 million bombs hitting the inner and outer city. So the majority of buildings we saw around Munich were actually replicas of buildings that had previously been destroyed. Our first stop on the tour was their New Town Hall, which we learned is the #2 most overrated tourist attraction in all of Europe. The first was actually the astronomical clock that we saw in Prague the day before Munich (we didn’t know that at the time). The New Town Hall is a new building created to look as old as the original building would have. It’s an exquisite building, and in the center of the building there is a clock tower than plays the wedding of a previous king. Next we saw the oldest church in Munich, St Peters Church, and then onto Victuals Market. Victuals Market is the most well-known—and also most expensive—market in Germany. Made up of lots of local butchers as well as fruit stands, this market was beautiful. It even has its own beer garden in the center, along with the historical May Pole. 

 

Next on the list was the most famous pub in the world, even though no one knows why it’s known as that - the Hofbrauhaus. Most people have heard of the HB brewery in Germany, but what people don’t know is that on the top floor of this building is the actual room where the Nazi Party was established by Adolf Hitler. This room is now a meeting room of sorts that can house large parties and events, but it once was home to hundreds of Hitler’s speeches and where he actually was elected to be the president of the Nazi party. After the HB house we walked down Maximillianstraus, which is basically the Rodeo Drive of Munich. It was a quick walk down the block to see the Royal Stables as well as the Royal Palace, which is now a museum about the royal family. Also in this square we saw the Opera House, version 4.5 due to many fires. Our last stop on the tour was a row of four lions, in which you are to run three of the four lions’ noses for good luck. Your choices are to live your days to the fullest, luck for a long life, luck for good weather, and luck for love. If you choose to rub three of the four, luck will come your way in those three areas. But if you happen to rub all four, bad luck will come to you in all four areas of your life. Which three would you choose? 

 

After our tour we were pretty cold, so we went to Augustiner am Platzl for a beer and a pretzel. After the long tour we were pretty exhausted, so we headed back to the hostel to make sandwiches and relax for the night.

 

Our next day in Munich we took an hour bus ride to visit the Dachau Concentration Camp. This was one of the places I visited in 2007. Going back and having our tour guide show us around and remind us of the history here was a entirely different experience. For those of you who don’t know, the concentration camp at Dachau was the first concentration camp, the model for all other concentration camps, and the only one that existed for all 12 years of Hitler’s horrors. This isn’t really something I can describe - it’s something you have to see for yourself. Our tour guide said two things that really stuck with me. The first was a quote from someone else: Honor the dead, warn the living. The second was one of his own observations which I completely agree with. He told us a story of a couple he met who almost didn’t go to Germany on their European tour solely because of Germany’s history. Marcin’s response was that every country has something bad in their past; sure, some worse than others. The difference here is that Germany is open about their past and wants to help the world learn from it. They don’t try to pretend like nothing bad happened there. That’s why the gas chambers are still available for tourists to walk through at Dachau. This really hit home for me.

His View 

Germany - Feliks' perspective

 

Hamburg 

Since Hamburg was not a huge city we decided only to spend the day there. We started off with a walk through the Planten un Blomen, a massive park. It was pretty cold outside and slightly raining but it was still a cool sight. There was a small river-like canal that ran through the park with various statues all over. We were surprised to see an ice skating rink in the middle of the park. There were a ton of kids skating around, it just seemed a little early for ice but they had it pretty well-frozen. It was interesting to see that the majority of the dogs were running around without leashes, and not one was misbehaving. Our walk took us to Reeperbahn Street, also known as the Red Light District. It wasn’t even noon yet so the place was pretty quiet but we did find a pub that was open where I enjoyed a local beer. The bartender told us a little more about the area and the activity at night. He also told us about the tunnel that was near by, Saint Pauli Elbtunnel. This tunnel went under the river and was one of the only free tunnels around of its kind. The tunnel entrance was no more than a two story tall dome that hid the enormous space inside. It was so deep that it probably took 5 minutes to walk down the stairs. Once at the bottom, we saw a narrow street to the other side. At first we were confused because the road was barely wide enough for a car and sidewalks on both sides. We later found out that they were repairing the other tunnel, so normally there would be traffic going both ways. And yes, cars were using the tunnels thanks to the oversized elevators on both sides. You could probably fit a full-sized Uhaul truck in one.

 

Once on the other side we had an awesome view of the harbor and the city skyline.  It was easy to see why this was such a busy port because there were boats, cargo holders, and cranes as far as you could see. Back on the other side right outside the tunnel was a little street vendor that had delicious Currywursts, a sausage cut into pieces, smothered in bbq sauce with curry seasoning sprinkled on top. Amazing. We then continued our journey through the heart of the city. There were the usually stores, restaurants, and gift shops. What made it cool for me were the streets themselves. Some of the buildings were really weird and some looked like they were 100 years old. They had a couple canals that ran through the center of all this. The main canal opened up into a lake/pond and at this opening is where we found a dragon. It was a statue that was on display every other year, I can't remember what for exactly, but it was huge. Our last stop in Hamburg was Miniatur Wunderland. I am having a hard time thinking about how to describe this place, but it was the biggest little model collection ever. I have put a few plastic model planes and cars together when I was little and I can still remember the painstaking task of getting all the details right: glueing all the parts together and then painting them. Comparatively speaking, my models were like stick figure drawings and they painted the ceiling of St. Ignazio in Rome; look it up. They literally had the miniature version of Sweden in there. There were so many tiny details that you could probably go there everyday for the rest of your life and see something new every time. They had entire towns, parks, countrysides, trains galore, cars that drove on the road, amusement parks with working rides, an airport with planes landing and taking off. They had Las Vegas, Area 51, random fantasy worlds, and cows scuba diving. Yes you read that right. The best part was that there was day and night. The lights went through the day cycle and when it was night time, all the little lights would go crazy. I personally liked the night time better. I wish we had an entire day to look at everything but I don't think that would have been enough. Definitely plan on being there a while to take in as much as you can. The details will blow your mind. Also, look everywhere because the builders definitely had a sense of humor and you will find some hidden gems in random places. 

 

Overall, Hamburg was cool. It wasn’t anything special to where I feel the need to go back. I wouldn't mind going through the Miniatur Wunderland again and seeing Reeperbahn at night. The city had its beautiful churches and cool architecture, but even now nothing really stands out. WiFi was pretty hard to find but the people where pretty friendly. 

 

Berlin

Berlin was one of those cities that I had read about in history books and I was really excited to see. We arrived around 10 at night and when we got to our hostel we had a moment, something like "what the?” The hostel reception desk was in the middle of a bar. This bar was packed, literally every chair in the place was taken and watching a soccer game. This hostel was part of the St. Christopher's hostel network and this was our first experience. I can tell you first hand that this hostel group is pretty well-maintained despite what you may expect from your first impression. Needless to say they give discounts for staying at their other properties, which we have used. 

 

Our first morning starts with a traditional German breakfast which consists of coffee and tea, apple or orange juice, and of course water. There are a couple different breads and rolls with a toaster nearby for those who like them warm. There were a couple different yogurts and cereals to choose from and obviously milk. The traditional part of this breakfast were the different kalbasas and cheeses that you would put on a buttered piece of bread. Honestly, it reminded me of home. I ate more than I should have. 

 

We started our tour of Berlin with the Berliner Fernsehturm, the tallest thing in the city I believe. Anytime you could see above the normal 5 story buildings, there this thing was. It was tall, really tall, but that's about it. Inside was kind of cool where they had info posters on all the tallest buildings in the world, the tallest being in Duhbi. We continued our walk toward the city center through Museum Island. Named appropriately so, there were museums everywhere. Most of the buildings looked ancient and were decorated accordingly. There were statues and monuments in every direction, along with cranes and construction sites. It was somewhat annoying because no matter what angle you took a picture from, you got construction in the background. 

 

The rest of the walk was pointing at all the cool buildings and statues all over the city. There was something to look at on every street and a plaque to read on every corner. We walked all the way to Charlie’s Checkpoint, just barely south of the city center, which is now a decent size tourist attraction and museum for the Berlin Wall. The fence around the museum facing the street had images of the wall as time progressed which was a good recap of history. Even though there was not a single piece of the Berlin Wall in its original place, they did have a piece on display, It was neat to see the bricks on the ground representing the wall. They also had a replica of a checkpoint booth where you could take a picture with some actors dressed as US military - very touristy but still a good place to check out. Since we were a good distance from the hostel, we started backtracking but got lost on purpose on our way. We ran into some really interesting architecture and sculptures, one being a giant ball with random items attached to it. It was pretty fun to take the long way back. 

 

The next day we decided to check out the real Berlin Wall Memorial that was north of the city center and it was worth it. There was a huge part of the wall that was still up and a beautiful memorial for the people that lost their lives there. I would recommend checking this out versus Charlie Checkpoint; it was much more well-done and does not have that tourist feel, minus the tourists there. Our next stop was the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. I saw a couple of pictures online but still had no idea what to expect. At first it was a little confusing because I was not sure what I was looking at. My first thought was that it was a bunch of concrete blocks arranged perfectly, I didn’t get it. As I looked around the area I started to see the size of the area these blocks where taking up. Then I started to notice people walking down the rows and disappearing. These blocks were perfectly arranged in a grid, something like 2000 of them. From the top they where different heights but the ground was not even. There were dips and hills but you couldn't tell from the top. The weirdest part was walking through the middle. There could be people walking next to you or in front of you and it was ok but if you made a turn and took a couple of steps, it was almost silent. You could look all the way left, right, straight, or behind you and not see a sole. Very weird feeling for you to be in a tourist area and then in a matter of a couple of steps be alone. 

 

Right by the memorial was the Brandenburg Gate: big, tall, lots of tourists, and it looked like they were getting ready for a concert on the other side. Pretty cool to look at for a couple of minutes. Right next to that was the Reichstag building, where they have the glass dome on top. You need to reserve an appointment to get up there so we just looked from a distance, don’t think we missed anything. 

 

Overall, Berlin seemed like an old city that was doing some remodeling. There were cranes and construction areas everywhere. The statues kept you looking left and right and the buildings just added to the experience. I know that Berlin has a lot more to offer that we didn't get to do and I would like to come back to check it out some more. WiFi was kind of hard to find and the people were medium friendly. 

 

 

Munich

So far on the trip we’ve only done solo walking around, so we don’t always get to know the story behind the things we see. In Munich we decided to try a walking tour. This obviously took a lot of time from just walking around the city and discovering random sites, but it was well worth it. We met the tour guide at Marionplatz, which happened to be right in front of the city hall. The tour guide began our 3 hour journey with the history of this building and the importance of beer to the city of Munich and Bavaria. Apparently the city hall has a couple of different restaurants and a handful of pubs inside. There is a law that allows people the right to have pint of beer for breakfast and lunch during working hours. Also, the construction workers are allowed to drink up to five pints of beer during work. He stressed again and again that they are not a bunch of alcoholics, but that beer has played a major role in their history. When the Swedish army invaded Munich, the people paid them with beer and gold to leave. Beer was used in an attempt to put out a fire at the opera house. A king was overthrown because he tried to raise the price of beer, which was the first Beer Revolution, and there were many more. There were monks making beer something like 600 years ago and a tax record that described them as “tax-cheating drunk monks.” The guide had really good stories and facts that otherwise would have been missed. The walking tour of the city was very informative and because it was so good, we decided to use the same guide to take a tour of Dachau the next day. 

 

Dachau was one of the bigger concentration camps that were built by the Nazi party. It started out as a prison for 10,000 people and held around 60,000 at its peak during WWII. The entire tour took about 4 hours and again was one of the best history lessons I’ve ever had. There is not a real way to describe the feeling you get when you hear about the horrors that happened at this place. There is not a real way to share the experience of the images and sites you see as you walk through the museum. The whole place is a giant emotional scene out of a movie that is almost impossible to believe. I only have a few things to say about this place. You have to do the guided tour, no matter your background, religion, political views, or gender preferences. Come with an open mind to listen; there was a lot more happening than I had previously thought. And remember your experience, reflect on it, and share it. At the end of the compound you walk through the actual gas chamber where thousands of innocent people were murdered. Right outside this building is a statue that reads “honor the dead, warn the living.” Our guide said something that really stuck out to me. I’m not sure if he was quoting someone but it went something like this: People are capable of incredible things, we can paint beautiful arts, compose symphonies, and love unconditionally. At the same time, people are cable of murder, rape, and genocide. 

 

Overall, we didn't explore the city of Munich as much as the previous stops but the walking tour of the city and Dachau were some of the best experiences I’ve ever had. WiFi was a little scarce but most restaurants had a password that you could ask for. Also, there is a law  in Munich that every pub has to have a publicly-accessible bathroom. 

Planten und Blumen

Planten und Blumen

Planten und Blumen

Planten und Blumen

Never seen a sign like this!

Never seen a sign like this!

For Ted Gorman

For Ted Gorman

Saint Alter Elbtunnel in Hamburg

Saint Alter Elbtunnel in Hamburg

Hamburg harbor

Hamburg harbor

Fresh fish sandwiches in Hamburg

Fresh fish sandwiches in Hamburg

Hamburg canal

Hamburg canal

Dragon in Hamburg

Dragon in Hamburg

Das Hamburger Rathaus

Das Hamburger Rathaus

Miniatur Wunderland

Miniatur Wunderland

Miniatur Wunderland

Miniatur Wunderland

Miniatur Wunderland

Miniatur Wunderland

Miniatur Wunderland

Miniatur Wunderland

Miniatur Wunderland

Miniatur Wunderland

Miniatur Wunderland

Miniatur Wunderland

Miniatur Wunderland

Miniatur Wunderland

Miniatur Wunderland

Miniatur Wunderland

Saint Alter Elbtunnel in Hamburg

Saint Alter Elbtunnel in Hamburg

Hamburg

Hamburg

German pickle

German pickle

Berlin

Berlin

Berlin bears

Berlin bears

Berlin bears

Berlin bears

Currywurst

Currywurst

TV Tower in Berlin

TV Tower in Berlin

Berlin

Berlin

Berlin

Berlin

Berlin

Berlin

Berlin Dome

Berlin Dome

Berlin Dome

Berlin Dome

Berlin

Berlin

Museum Island

Museum Island

Museum Island

Museum Island

Berlin

Berlin

Currywurst truck in Berlin

Currywurst truck in Berlin

Berlin Wall

Berlin Wall

Charlie Checkpoint

Charlie Checkpoint

Random find in Berlin

Random find in Berlin

Random find in Berlin

Random find in Berlin

Berlin Wall

Berlin Wall

Berlin Wall

Berlin Wall

Berlin Wall

Berlin Wall

Berlin Wall

Berlin Wall

Berlin Wall

Berlin Wall

Berlin canal

Berlin canal

Brandenburger Tor, Berlin

Brandenburger Tor, Berlin

Memorial to Murdered Jews of Europe

Memorial to Murdered Jews of Europe

Memorial to Murdered Jews of Europe

Memorial to Murdered Jews of Europe

Berlin

Berlin

Berlin Wall

Berlin Wall

Memorial to Murdered Jews of Europe

Memorial to Murdered Jews of Europe

New Town Hall, Munich

New Town Hall, Munich

New Town Hall, Munich

New Town Hall, Munich

St Peters Church, Munich

St Peters Church, Munich

Virtuals Market, beer garden, Munich

Virtuals Market, beer garden, Munich

St Peters clock tower, Munich

St Peters clock tower, Munich

May Pole, Munich

May Pole, Munich

Juliet statue, gift to Munich

Juliet statue, gift to Munich

Royal Palace, Munich

Royal Palace, Munich

Royal Palace, Munich

Royal Palace, Munich

Opera House, Munich

Opera House, Munich

Munich - four lions

Munich - four lions

Munich - four lions

Munich - four lions

Munich - four lions

Munich - four lions

Munich - four lions

Munich - four lions

Local beer, Munich

Local beer, Munich

Munich

Munich

Hofbrauhaus, Munich

Hofbrauhaus, Munich

Hofbrauhaus, Munich

Hofbrauhaus, Munich

Hofbrauhaus, Munich

Hofbrauhaus, Munich

Hofbrauhaus, Munich

Hofbrauhaus, Munich

Hofbrauhaus, Munich

Hofbrauhaus, Munich

Hofbrauhaus, Munich

Hofbrauhaus, Munich

Hofbrauhaus, Munich

Hofbrauhaus, Munich

Hofbrauhaus, Munich

Hofbrauhaus, Munich

New Town Hall, Munich

New Town Hall, Munich

Munich beer

Munich beer

Dachau front gates

Dachau front gates

Dachau - railroad from ammo factory

Dachau - railroad from ammo factory

Dachau - SS Guard house

Dachau - SS Guard house

Dachau - counting grounds

Dachau - counting grounds

Dachau

Dachau

Dachau

Dachau

Dachau

Dachau

Dachau: "no smoking"

Dachau: "no smoking"

Dachau table of torture

Dachau table of torture

Dachau

Dachau

Dachau torture barracks

Dachau torture barracks

Dachau Concentration Camp

Dachau Concentration Camp

Dachau - guard house

Dachau - guard house

Dachau

Dachau

Dachau: "shower"

Dachau: "shower"

Dachau Memorial

Dachau Memorial

German grub in Munich

German grub in Munich

Local German beer

Local German beer

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